'History House' Antique Patterns by the Fashion Archaeologist
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​Photo Tutorials keyed to
​'History House' sewing patterns

Pattern #1909-A-003  (Section 4, Making & Mounting the Gown Skirt)

12/8/2019

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Section 4:  This section shows the steps in constructing, finishing and mounting the outer (satin or charmeuse) skirt of this gown.   Please refer to the cutting guidelines given with the sewing pattern, as this wide Edwardian skirt is cut differently from most modern skirts.  

Click on "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run slideshow; click on pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover over the thumbnail string to advance or rewind.

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Pattern #1909-A-003  (Section 3, Making & Mounting the Gown Bodice)

12/8/2019

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Section 3:  This section sets out the steps in constructing and completing the satin bodice of this gown, and mounting it onto the boned foundation. 

Click on "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run slideshow; click on pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover over the thumbnail string to advance or rewind.

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Pattern #1909-A-003 (Section 2, Constructing & Mounting the Underskirt)

12/8/2019

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Section 2:  This section details the steps in making and mounting the underskirt of this gown.  Most Edwardian formal gowns included an underskirt or "drop-skirt", which was not a lining in the modern sense, but a separately cut and often differently designed lightweight skirt attached to the foundation only at the top.  The underskirt is otherwise free to flow beneath the main skirt, giving it an elegant drape and flow. 

Appropriate fabrics of the time for an underskirt in a formal gown would be China silk, lightweight satin or silk crêpe de Chine.  A modern option would be Bemberg rayon lining fabric.  Whatever is used, the fabric must flow well and be light in weight.  Stiff or crisp fabrics, such as silk taffeta, are unsuitable.   The pleated frill is entirely optional, but it is an authentic Edwardian touch, and helps to give loft and movement to the outer skirt.

Click on "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run slideshow; click on pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover over the thumbnail string to advance or rewind.

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Pattern #1909-A-003 (Section 1, Constructing the Boned Foundation)

12/8/2019

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Pattern #1909-A-003, Grand Ball or Evening Gown 
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Section 1:  This section sets out the steps in constructing the boned foundation for this gown.   Edwardian formal ball or evening gowns were almost always built over a closely-fitting, boned foundation.  The photos in this section show the step-by-step process of creating this very important structural part of the gown.  Although it requires some careful sewing, there is nothing that would be beyond the abilities of someone with average sewing skills. 
Click on "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run slideshow; click on pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover over the thumbnail string to advance or rewind.
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Pattern #1909-A-005 (Section 5, Gown Back Closure)

12/8/2019

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Section 5:  Constructing and completing the back closure of this gown.   This gown has a relatively simple centre back closure, created by a sewn-on facing on one edge, and an under-lapping placket on the other (which hides the actual fasteners). 

Click on "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run slideshow; click on pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover over the thumbnail string to advance or rewind.

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Pattern #1909-A-005 (Section 4, Making and Applying the Rouleaux Trim)

12/8/2019

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Section 4:  Making the authentic "rouleaux" trim (the swirling motifs) shown in the antique sketch and the photos.   

​This embellishment is optional, but adds to the authentic look of this lovely gown.   You can also reduce or modify the amount of rouleaux trim you apply, based on your own preference.

Rouleaux trim (which is similar to modern "spaghetti strap" construction) was especially fashionable during the 1908-1912 period, and was used on both day wear and evening gowns.   It isn't difficult to make, but does require care and patience to apply.  


Click "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run slideshow; click pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.   Hover over thumbnail string to advance forward or rewind.  Hover right or left over the thumbnail string to fast forward or reverse.  

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Pattern #1909-A-005 (Section 3, Sleeves & Sleeve Embellishment)

12/8/2019

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Section 3:  Constructing the gown's sleeves and making and applying the embellishment shown in the antique sketch and the photos.   All of this embellishment is optional, but adds to the authentic look of this lovely gown. 

Click "Play" (top left, 1st photo) to run slideshow; click pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.   Hover over thumbnail string to advance forward or rewind.  

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Pattern #1909-A-005 (Section 2, Constructing Bodice & Trim)

11/8/2019

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Section 2: Showing the steps in preparing, constructing, and trimming the gown bodice using bias bands. 

​Click at top left of first photo to play through the slideshow; click pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view a particular photo. 

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Pattern #1909-A-005 (Section 1, Constructing the Lining & Plastrons)

11/8/2019

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1909-A-005 Ladies Princess Day Gown 
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This Section 1 sets out the steps in constructing the lining and the front and back plastrons for this gown.  The lining of this gown, unusual for an Edwardian style, is cut from the same pieces as the gown itself, but only to just below hip level. 

Click at top left of first photo below to play slideshow through; click pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to see an individual photo. 
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Pattern #1910-A-015 (Section 8, Making & Mounting the Skirt)

11/8/2019

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Section 8: Steps in constructing and mounting the skirt of this gown.   The pattern provides for both a "round" length (street length, the same all around), and a trained length as shown in the photos.  You can use the Skirt Band as provided with the pattern, or draft your own -- either straight or curved, narrower or wider -- to give your own  unique creative finish to the gown. 

Click on "Play" (top left of photos) to run slideshow, click pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual picture .

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    Overview

    This section contains "help photos" keyed to selected 'History House' sewing patterns, to assist customers with aspects of historical construction. 
    ​Please be sure to read "001-An Introduction" for details (see under 'Pattern List' below). 

    Archives

    June 2024
    February 2022
    August 2019

    Pattern List

    All
    001-An Introduction
    1909 A 003 (7 Sections)
    1909 A 005 (5 Sections)
    1910 A 015 (8 Sections)
    1911 A 015 (1 Section)
    1911 A 017 (2 Sections)
    1911 A 052 (2 Sections)
    1912 A 003 (3 Sections)
    1912 A 028 (3 Sections)
    1912 A 029 (5 Sections)
    1912 A 040 (1 Section)
    1912 C 003 (1 Section)

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